Last week I related the experience in my visit to a downtown Nairobi witchdoctor. Seconds away from interviewing a summoned spirit, I sat terrified in Dr Ali’s cramped office, with his young apprentice Muhammad. The calabashes started to shake again, rituals were recited and dead ancestors summoned. I held unto Muhammad's trousers for some support, though I wasn’t sure what I was even scared of, let alone how I could protect myself. The lights flickered thrice before turning off, leaving the room completely dark, and me unable to see a thing...
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